2014 Texas Organic Farmers and Gardeners Assn Conference: The Time Is Now

I'm a board member of the Texas Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association.  TOFGA is a statewide organization supporting organic and sustainable agriculture, and the farmer is our focus.

Our major undertaking is an annual conference, and I just returned from our 2014 get together in Houston. It's always a fun time with great food, and it's often the only opportunity we have to see some of our friends throughout the state, so we look forward to it for both the educational and social aspects.

This year we noted some changes, which I feel are indicative of a broader change in sustainable agriculture in Texas.

TOFGA is one of the few places you can find people to talk about things like small animal husbandry, backyard livestock, GMOs and how to run a raw milk dairy.  We cover all the usual subjects - specialty crops, composting, farmers' markets, etc., but we also hit the livestock track, which is where I saw the big difference this year.

Usually, we provide the livestock classes and may get 4-5 people in each class.  They appeal to a targeted niche audience, so that's not unusual, but his year we had 15-20 in each class.  And not just grass fed beef production (there were 35 in that class).

Our livestock track covered pastured poultry, pasture-based goat dairy, grass fed beef, high-density grazing, pastured swine and sheep, and raw milk production.  Not your average everyday gardening conference. And there were a lot of folks there to learn.

We brought in some of our heavy hitters to teach:

Jon Taggart of Burgundy Pasture Beef talked about sustainable practices in grass fed beef - he's seeing some changes in the industry that he's not happy about. Grass fed is grass fed - why is there discussion about that?

Stuart and Connie Veldhuizen spoke about raw milk dairy farming, and if you've had some good Texas cheese, you've probably had theirs.  Veldhuizen Cheese has a Redneck Cheddar that is truly amazing, and Stuart has developed a method for building cheese caves using papercrete that is both simple and cost-effective.  And...they bring cheese samples to their workshops, so of course they are well attended!

Betsy Ross of Sustainable Growth Texas discussed soil health and high density grazing.  Ranchers are in effect grass farmers, so they must keep the health of their soil as the highest priority.  She's been working closely with Kim and Laurie at Barking Cat Farm in West Tawakoni, so we are reaping the benefits of her mentorship here in north Texas.

What does that mean for Texas?  Hopefully, more access to meat, eggs and milk from some new small, sustainable farms.  Homegrown food that is native Texan.  I'm all for it.

Local Meat in Dallas

We are truly blessed in Dallas.  It used to be that you bought a side of beef, stored it in your deep freeze, and it fed you for 6 months to a year, depending on the size of your family.  I bought half a lamb a few years ago, and had to shuffle it to my friends when we spent four days without power due to downed tree.  It wouldn't have been possible to do that with a side of beef.

I see you!

I've purchased local meat from several farmers.  In the Dallas area, there are a number that sell meat at Farmers Markets or provide home delivery, and here are some of my favorites:
Livestock First Ranch 
Rehoboth Ranch
Bar M Ranch
Juha Ranch
Burgundy Pastured Beef

In addition, if you need a special cut quickly, the Local Yocal just off the square in McKinney runs a full service retail butcher shop carrying locally raised beef from Matt Hamilton's Genesis Beef.  They also carry local chicken, pork, lamb, goat, eggs, dairy and honey.  Good stuff.

If I'm picking up at a farmers market, I like to call ahead and preorder.  Farmers like to know they have orders before they get to market, and this helps them make sure they have enough product.  Additionally, some have limited eggs and give priority to orders that include meat, so it's a good idea to get on their list before market day.

Don't be afraid to ask questions.  Every one of these farmers is proud of what they produce, and happy to talk about it with you.  Know your farmer!

Book Review: Gaining Ground, by Forrest Pritchard

Gaining Ground

When I saw a press release about this book prior to its publication, I knew it was one that I wanted on my reading list.  (As a disclaimer, Forrest Pritchard is a follower of Joel Salatin's so you know upfront what you'll get here - a strong focus on animal husbandry and allowing the products of his farm to reach his customer unadulterated with additives, chemicals or "unnecessary messing with.")

I found the story interesting and well written; Forrest isn't shy about the lack of experience he carried into his farming career or the mistakes he's made.  I've heard some elements of his story from other farmers, as his exploits and theirs follow a similar path.  Many farmers have told me of trouble selling their produce and meat in their own communities, of being forced to travel a good distance to a heavily populated city center in order to be fairly compensated for their labor. As Forrest writes, "Talent at home goes wasted."

One of the most interesting episodes to me is his attempt to finally clear out the synthetic fertilizer that had been stored on his ranch, with the outcome leading me to wonder how many farming families have been harmed simply by proximity to these chemicals.  There is also a heartfelt discussion on the ethics of raising animals for slaughter - I have renewed respect for sustainable livestock farmers.

Forrest is at heart an entrepreneur.  He tries different avenues to create income from the farm, from firewood to eggs to meat, and his first foray into the world of farmers markets is heartbreaking. He struggles with unscrupulous butchers, customers who expect everything for nothing, and equipment that is past its prime and held together with baling wire. I enjoyed the descriptive narrative around the growth of his business and the genesis of his farming manifesto.  In 1997 he had his last factory farmed cheeseburger, and the mental shift that accompanied this decision had its origin in his closer proximity to the food chain.  That may be the key for our small farmers, with the current popularity of backyard chickens and vegetable gardening increasing exposure to livestock and homegrown goodness.  

Gaining Ground is a feel good story that has an underlying message - a message to take what you have and make a difference.  As Joel Salatin says, it's an important book for those who will never farm, because Forrest's story is played out daily across this country in the lives of small farmers.  Until the consumer understands the value of their purchase when they buy from a small, sustainable farmer, and the impact it has on our local economies, our local food infrastructure will continue to grow slowly.

Two thumbs up!

Changing Your Diet Series: Raw Milk

I have a friend that can't drink pasteurized milk - it gives her an allergic reaction.  She hadn't had any in years until she tried some of my raw milk - and had no issues.  The pasteurization and homogenization processes seem to create problems in our digestion, part of the reason many people buy it directly from the farm.

There's an underground movement that moves an enormous amount of raw milk around north Texas every day. Since most of the dairies are outside the DFW area, groups purchase milk and carry it back. Texas law requires that raw milk be sold to the consumer on the farm. No farmers markets, no delivery, no store sales - just straight from the farmer to the buyer. And while it would be nice to get my raw milk from the store, I've learned so much from having to head to the farm every few weeks.  I have a better understanding of what it takes to get food from the farm to my refrigerator.

I think the FDA likes to think that raw milk drinkers are free spirits who live in communes and are out of touch with the real world.  Read: fringe.  Not mainstream.  It couldn't be farther from the truth. The members of my group are lawyers, health care professionals, and entrepreneurs concerned about the food they eat.

All of us have arrived at this place in our raw milk journey from a different starting point.  Personally, I have an issue with joint pain. For a time, I was very concerned about arthritis, although that doesn't really seem to be my issue. Raw milk contains something called the Wulzen Factor, which is an enzyme that appears to help combat inflammation and the type of joint pain I have. That sold me - my doctor told me to take an NSAID - but I'd much rather eat a food that did the job.  In case you're wondering why I can't get this from pasteurized milk, the Wulzen Factor is inactivated by pasteurization. Does it work? My joints are better. Not perfect, but I don't need a painkiller and I've actually been able to start running again.

The web has tons of information about the benefits of raw milk, but you need to come to your own conclusion as to the benefit to your family.  Friends tell me organic milk is too expensive - I agree.  $6 for a gallon of UHT, homogenized liquid is way too much.  I actually pay more than that for the milk I get from the farm, but I know I'm getting my money's worth.  Another option is locally-sourced low-temp pasteurized non-homogenized milk, which you can find if you look for it.  Here's a local option available in some stores in the DFW area.

So...how do you find raw milk?  How do you find a farmer?  The place to start is www.realmilk.com.  Do your homework and call several of the farms listed in your area - and visit them as well.  You'll get a feeling for what you're looking at, even if you're not familiar with it.  If the farms don't like visitors, cross them off your list, no exceptions.  A good farm will offer references and walk you through their process, and maybe even provide access to a rideshare contact that will let you join a group.

The farm that's been feeding my family for the past few years is about 45 minutes north of me.  It has about ten cows, a few hogs, chickens, and a grass-fed steer once or twice a year.  They also market lamb from another small farm, which I've purchased several times and been very satisfied.  Traci, my farmer, makes it so easy.  Everything is on the honor system; order a few days ahead - if she doesn't call you back, come get it.  And leave a check in the cooler.  Sadly, Traci and her husband are closing their farm down in June and selling.  We are heartbroken, not only at the loss of access to the wonderful food they provide, but at the loss of our farmers who have become friends over the past several years.

I wanted this raw milk post to be about how, not why, since the why is is pretty clear if you read any of the real food blogs online.  If you're not ready for raw milk, that's okay.  Finding a farmer isn't just about milk. It's about access to real food.

Some things to think about:

...raw milk is a real food and changes with the seasons, unlike store bought milk.  Right now in the spring it's a gorgeous light yellow from all the new grass the cows are eating, and the taste is amazing.

...sometimes things happen and you don't get your milk. I've driven two hours to the farm, only to find them sold out. When farmers lose cattle their milk production can drop drastically to where they can't keep up with demand.

...sometimes people scheduled to pick up milk just don't feel like it that day, and the farmer has to feed the milk to their hogs.  You can't have a grocery store mentality if you choose to support a farmer this way - because that's exactly what you're doing - supporting a farmer.

...farmers deserve to make a living wage.  A dairy farmer milks twice a day, seven days a week, with no time off for good behavior.  All so that I can have fresh, nutritious milk on my table.

I got milk from the farm today.  And I'm going to shake it up and have a glass right now!

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Changing Your Diet Series: Farmers Markets

Coppell Farmers Market Community

A farmers market can be your doorway to better food.  It will introduce you to farmers, foodies, and folks who know where to find stuff.  Stuff like raw milk, and local grains, and the best places to find pick-your-own peaches and blueberries.  Not to mention the fact that these people know how to cook...

The Coppell Farmers Market has created a wonderful sense of community in managing their market.  It's run by a local volunteer committee that approves the vendors and determines policy based on input from the vendors, customers and city, and balancing what is right for the community.  The Coppell Farmers Market mission is to connect people to food producers.

The Coppell Market was the second market I visited in the DFW area.  The first, of course, was the Dallas Farmers Market,.  Before I realized there weren't many farmers there.  Coppell has introduced me to many of  the producers I use today, and the CFM Committee is careful to ensure each producer is exactly who they say they are.

Another local market is Eden's Garden CSA Farm in Balch Springs.  Only 10 minutes southeast of downtown Dallas, it's a lovely market on a small urban farm that carries produce, meat, baked goods, honey right from the farm (we call that hyper-local!) and locally produced (Texas) olive oil.  Everything has been vetted by farmer and market manager Marie Tedei, who only allows food that is free of pesticides and hormones at her market.  Added benefit:  the kids will love to see the chickens, and she has a couple sheep as well!

Many markets have classes scheduled to teach you how to use some of the produce sold by their vendors, (sometimes even local chef demonstrations) and it's a great way to get connected to the local food community.  Make sure you bring small bills/change, shopping bags, and a cooler for meat, fish and cheese.  

If you have yet to visit a local market, spring and fall are the best times of the year for fresh produce in north Texas, and you can find winter markets as well.  Late summer markets can be a little slim with the heat, but they are always a fun way to spend a Saturday morning.  Here's a link to a great list of local markets thanks  to Edible DFW!

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Planting it Forward

We planted onions on Saturday at Wendy Akin's farm in Terrell.  She offered us a few rows to plant donation crops, so we brought some volunteers and headed out there.  Her soil is a sandy loam that will grow just about anything, and we just had to poke our finger in the soil, insert the onion and then push some soil back over the ball to cover it.  Simple.

When these onions mature, we'll harvest them and they'll be donated through our networks to families that need them, so when you look at this picture, don't see a planted field.  See a dinner table.  

Thank you to Wendy Akin, Sonja Gold and her wonderful boys, and Josh and Ashley from Spring Fed Farms CSA for helping us plant it forward.

Pots in the Garden

According to Wikipedia, an Olla pot is a squat, rounded pot used to cook or store food.  It was also used in religious rites and at times buried with a body to assist in the journey to the afterlife.  Cremated remains were even stored in them.  Luckily, humans have the ability to see myriad uses for one object...and this one has taken on a new life - or at least been resurrected.

Olla pot irrigation was described in writings from 1st century China, so it's not new, but it is well-suited to the Texas climate.  The concept is simple...unglazed clay pots are buried in the soil, filled with water and covered.  The soil wicks the moisture from the pot as needed; during periods of rain, the seepage stops - overwatering is never an issue.  Groups such as Global Buckets have been paying attention and have incorporated clay pots into some of their designs.

I love the water conservation aspect of this product.  Texas summers are brutal - keeping your garden watered can be a pain; miss a day and you may just have cooked it.  Because the irrigation with these pots is underground, evaporation is at a minimum.  By mulching the surface you can protect the soil even more, and  help maintain those moisture levels.

As with any gardening tool, prices range from expensive to downright cheap for the DIY model.  Any unglazed pot will do; the wicking has to do with the saturation level in the clay.  Here is a very detailed DIY video - I think I see a group workshop on this in the future as it might be easier to do this as a group to see how it works.  If you're interested in joining us to try this out, leave a comment so we can gauge the interest.

On a personal level, I purchased an Olla from Dripping Springs Ollas to try in a 4x4 bed.  When I buried it I realized it was bigger than I thought, so I've mounded soil and mulch around the neck of the jar.  You can see how the clay is damp just above the mulch line - the deeper you bury it, the less evaporation you'll see.  As my bed ages and the cardboard underneath decomposes, I may be able to dig it deeper, although when the plants get large, they'll shade the pot and it will still be easy to fill.  You can also add fish emulsion or liquid molasses to the jar for slow release.

It's funny how things come full circle; these were being used 2000 years ago.  I guess good ideas never go out of style!

American Meat

Last night I went with some friends to a screening of the movie American Meat.  When I told him where I was going, my husband looked at my son and said "Mom's going to take something away from us when she comes back".  I had a chuckle.

If you've seen Food Inc., you can understand that response.  I didn't eat a hamburger for a year and half after seeing that movie...until Elevation Burger came to Dallas and I could know what was in my food.

American Meat is a different kind of foodie documentary.  It didn't give me that visceral response that other films have; in fact, I really enjoyed it!  It was nice to see footage of Joel Salatin in more of a business mentor role - he mentions that his family farm is going to gross over $1 million...yes, a family farm.  It can be done, if it's done right.

Chipotle's story is included in this film; you might remember the amazing commercial they aired:

There's a great market there for our small sustainable farmers...something to look into.

This film gave me a glimpse into how farmers are operating their hog farms and chicken barns...and how they feel about it and why they do what they do.  And it gave me a feeling of hope, that we really can change things.  Even if it takes awhile.

Community

I feel inspired.

I really look forward to January and February.  Farmers in Texas work pretty much 24/7, but normally there is some downtime during the winter months.  With all the season extension research and development taking place, that is slowly changing, but for now, most large agricultural events happen during the first quarter of the year.  Which means that the farmers get to play.

This month we were in Austin, with the Texas Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association annual conference.  We met some new friends; it was TOFGA's 20th anniversary, and it felt like a big party.  The banquet keynote speaker was Jim Hightower, and if you haven't heard him speak, well, you need to.  Farmers need an advocate, and they certainly have one in Jim.

We met Dorsey Barger of Hausbar Farms, former owner of East Side Cafe, who is making a difference in her neighborhood and helping to bring urban farming into the mainstream.  Dorsey is raising produce, chickens and rabbits, and is getting ready to step into the world of aquaponics with the new system they've installed.

We met Paige Hill of Urban Patchwork Neighborhood Farms.  (We sought her out because we heard about her program and were amazed at what she's accomplished). Paige is bringing food and education into neighborhoods by building gardens and CSAs in the neighborhoods they serve.  Hyperlocal is going to be the next big thing.  I'd really love to see this business model in the Dallas/Fort Worth area - we need more local food and this may be one of the fastest avenues to make that happen.

And we saw many of our old friends.  One of the things I've noticed about the farmers I work with - they are always happy help someone just starting out.  Brad and Jenny Stufflebeam of Home Sweet Farm in Brenham gave a workshop on starting a small family farm.  They have been integral to TOFGA's push for mentoring and networking opportunities for new farmers.  Erin Flynn and Skip Connett of Green Gate Farms in Austin have started their New Farm Institute to serve as a new farm incubator.  Without farmers like these, we wouldn't be seeing the growth in local agriculture that we are in Texas.

Texas agriculture is a very small community.  This is the community that is fighting for your right to have raw milk, farm fresh produce and grass-fed meat produced locally and sustainably.  If you aren't looking for it, you probably won't see all the activity, but we'd like to invite you to stop at your local farmers market and say hello.  You might find your next meal.

Soil

I spent last week in Little Rock, Arkansas, at the Southern Sustainable Agriculture Working Group Conference (also known as Southern SAWG).  I'm always inspired when I get to spend time with people who make their living through the soil.  They have a perspective that is missing in much of our culture.

I saw it in a meeting I had last week in Ft Worth.  We visited a private farm, and a friend reached down and grabbed a fistful of earth before she looked around.  She crumbled it in her hands to feel the texture and tilth.  Then, and only then, did she look at what was growing in it.

That has been my experience with many of the farmers and growers I am blessed to work with.  They look beneath the trappings, the decorations, and really see what's going on.  And when they tell you to stop looking at the plants and pay attention to the soil, you really need to listen to them!

I'm going to be working on my soil this spring, so you'll see more about this, but here's something to think about as you work your soil to get it ready for spring planting: